Simon, our in-house head coach and Evolv sponsored climber, has been pestering me for months about whether his Nexxos had arrived. At long last they did, so we wanted to find out if they lived up to the hype. -Joby
Just over a month has passed since a pair of Evolv Nexxos arrived at my house. These are one of Evolv’s new climbing shoe designs for 2014 and are part of the Sharma Series. I’ll confess right away: I have been waiting excitedly for these shoes for some time and the release date has been moved several times so once they finally arrived I was almost caught off guard.
The shoe is essentially a slipper in design with a strap to help keep a snug closure. The construction is similar to the Shaman with the use of different materials to ensure comfort and low stretch across the life of the shoe.
That, however, is where the similarities end. The Nexxos most distinct difference is the totally reshaped toe box; this model sees Evolv move away from the steep square cut of the Shaman and move to a more asymmetric, pointier, front end. This new shape allows for more precise foot placements on awkward foot holds such as slots and pockets and I believe gives you better power transfer along the outside edge.
The heel is also quite different, with a super-tensioned heel rand that pulls your foot forward into place. This used to be very common amongst climbing shoes but seemed to drop out of favour for some time. I’m glad it’s back!
Toe hooking is much improved with the Nexxo mostly due to the larger rubber toe patch but also in my opinion the shape of the new toe box offers a much larger ‘grab’ area similar to some other top end shoes out at the moment. This for me is a big deal; as someone who enjoys steep climbing toe hooking is a major part of my game.
The fit is fantastic, with little to no dead space found in the shoe; the only note I would make is that I have gone a full size up from my normal Evolv size. In a Shaman I wore a UK 9 and I’ve found that a UK 10 in a Nexxo is perfect. This is probably due to the extra tension in the heel rand.
So I’ve had these a while now and performance-wise they kick arse. They offer comfort even after a long bouldering session at the wall, were I can leave them on for long periods of time. So far there has been zero stretch, the fit has remained fantastic and the rubber seems very durable with my Nexxos showing no signs of wear as yet. I should point out that I have abused them already with regular DWS sessions, bouldering, sport and even long bolting sessions, which normally kill my shoes.
So all in all I’m giving a massive thumbs up for the Nexxos. They have performed beyond my expectations in a variety of environments and seem durable enough to deal with the abuse I put my climbing shoes through. The fit is great and the styling isn’t to shabby either!