Training advice for the summer 2016



So academy has finished for the summer, and in previous years we have all seen this as a holiday. And first and foremost for the majority of young climbers it is, and should predominantly remain so. But with that being said there is certainly a lot that can be done to prepare them ready for the new season which is only a month or two away.

General Fitness

I cannot get over enough to climbers I coach how important their overall fitness is and how this predetermines their ability to cope with volume of training during the season plus keep them safe from injuries etc..

Cardiovascular fitness is an important element in most climbers training and one which is hard to develop through climbing alone! the demands upon our muscles are simply not high enough. it is rare that we fail on a route due to lack O2 were running requires a huge work load across much larger muscle groups and as such places a huge demand over the card system.

So consider going for a run, cycling, swimming as examples of some activities that will make a difference to their standard come September.


In my prime I felt I was strong from my finger to my toes, and it was this ability to maintain tension through out my body that helped me when the climbing got tough. It goes without saying that the conditioning work I did played a huge part in this. Interestingly it wasn’t until I started coaching and a visit to the local Gymnastic facility in Swansea that my eyes were opened to what was achievable from a good conditioning plan. To this day I have not met a young climber that could keep pace with a young gymnast during their warm up routines. Once a climber has this level of conditioning coupled with the other elements they should be capable of reaching their full potential.

If your new to this consider adding a ten minute workout to your day. This can be a simple as picking 10 different conditioning excersizes and attempting to complete 3 sets of 10 rep for each.

for those who need more of a challenge download the core work sheet from last season and attempt it twice a week.

Fun Climbing sessions

It is important that if possible your child climbs during the summer. This will unlikely be as much as during the season but if once a week is possible that would be a great help.

It is a great opportunity for young climbers to simply play. By this I am referring to climbing for fun with less enthisis on training etc but instead on exploring new techniques possibly even new climbing centres, after all there are far more climbing walls in South Wales than you realise.

Boulders – Obviously

Spot – Trefforest – Bouldering only centre – great facility, regular route setting etc..

Rock Uk – Nr Merthyr – Lead and boulder facility, routes are set of various quality but centre has some amazing wall shapes and is currently the highest.

Pencoed College – 12 line wide lead wall, with routes set. NO REGUALR SETTING. Suitable up to around 6b for routes

Neath Port Talbot collegeN – Llansamlet – 20 line wide lead wall about 12mtrs high, could be amazing but route setting is lacking. Suitable up to around f6b.

DynamicRock – Swansea, Clydach – My old home! lead and bouldering centre – great fascility, route setting is up and down (excuse the pun) suitable for all.

Barry Island Promonade

Barry YMCA

The cube – Port Talbot, Roped climbing and Bouldering although considered a bouldering facility by most. recently updated it host some cool bouldering of all grades.

Carmarthen Uni

Pontypridd Uni

Swansea Uni

Swansea LC

Aber rocks –

Llangorse – nr Brecon

The overhang – Tenby

Haverford west LC